![]() You can only learn these things here-from people who have been making these foods their whole lives.” When she gives Buford a tortellini recipe, she explicitly tells him not to share it with Batali. … I don’t think Mario understands how much we gave him. Expanding on his James Beard Award-winning New Yorker article, Bill Buford gives us a richly evocative chronicle of his experience as slave to Mario. In the most poignant moments of the book, Buford’s Italian pasta mentor, Betta, says, “Mario was not very good at pasta. Inspired as Batali may have been by the Italians, they seem uneasy with the success he has gained from their traditions. Bookish Buford tries to get closer to the heart of Italian eating by examining historical cookbooks-but it is by living in Italy that he truly grasps the cuisine that electrified Batali. Most important, Buford travels to the Podunk town of Porretta Terme, Italy, where Batali learned to understand and cook Italian food. ![]() ![]() Buford flits past Jeremiah Tower, the flamboyant California chef who influenced Batali’s taste for bright, acidic flavors-one of the decidedly non-Italian characteristics of Batali’s food today. It is often said that the best test of both the professional and the home cook is a roasted chicken, that, if nothing else, a good cook should always be able to serve up a beautiful birdcrispy. According to Buford, Batali’s management style and his suspicion of French food developed as a counteraction to White’s example. ![]() Buford bravely dines with Marco Pierre White, the famous, and famously tempestuous, British chef with whom Batali spent a few tumultuous months in a tiny pub kitchen before either man was famous. ![]()
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